ARDF Fox Transmitter Controller Project...

Now a BLOG...
(6/12/2011)

And more:  HTs & Voltage Regulators

Another wrong turn on the information highway...

But, if you are a geek and can construct DIY electronic stuff... this project might be a cheap and easy way to get your Fox a Transmitting and you a hunting.

 

FIG 1

FIG 2

Above left is the SAW III voice recorder kids toy available from All Electronics for $1.85 each if you buy 10 or more.  The toy has a record button and a play button. It will approx 30 seconds of pretty good quality voice.  The round button is REC and the triangle button is play. The little hole above the REC button is the microphone... which is a small electret.

Above right is the front panel of the FOX transmitter controller that uses the SAW voice recorder board from the toy.
 

FIG 3
More about the SAW Voice Recorder:  http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/07/how-to-circuitbend-a-chea.html
FIG 4

FIG 4 above... is the "functional schematic" for the hidden transmitter controller.  Important note: The SAW does not control the transmitter.  The SAW is simply part of the controller that provides the ham radio call sign ID and whatever other audio message that the transmitter hunters will be listening to.  OOOOPS... Q3 is labeled wrong.  Sub G for S.

I built this contraption little by little in 2007.  Some of it was experimented with on a proto bread board... some was on the fly on the circuit board in the foto. So now in 2011, after not thinking about this for a few years...

Here's how I think it works:  the LM555 timer chip is wired to be an ASTABLE oscillator.  Pin 3 is the OUTPUT lead.  This lead goes HIGH or LOW (12 volts or GND) for a length of time based on the two resistors and capacitors.
This website is my favorite source of LM555 info:  http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/555timer.htm

The OUTPUT going HIGH (12 volts) drives the three 2N7000 MOSFETs that are small signal switches into conducting.  12 volts thru the 100K ohm current limiting resistor connected to the G lead causes the transistor to conduct from S to G. 

When Q1's G is driven HIGH (12 volts on the G lead) the D lead is grounded.  This affectively places a 2.2K ohm resistor from ground to the Tip lead P1 which is the microphone plug for the handy talky.  The ICOM and Radio Shack handy talkies are keyed up by placing a 2.2K ohm resistor across the T and R of the microphone jack.

When Q2's G is driven HIGH (12 volts on the G) the D lead is grounded.  This affectively places a GND condition on the PLAY lead of the SAW circuit board.  Q2 is acting just like the PLAY push button switch in the SAW toy.  This action plays the message.  The SAW audio amp is designed to operate into the load of the speaker.  This design removes the speaker and subs a 10 ohm resistor in its place.  The 10K ohm resistor and 1K ohm pot act as a voltage divider and volume control to adjust the audio output of the SAW to be the correct level for the handy talkies microphone input across the 2.2K resistor  The wiper arm of the 1K ohm pot is connected to a 10 uF capacitor to isolate the voltage from the handy talky microphone circuit from the SAW audio output resistors.  Audio travels thru this capacitor, but not the mic DC voltages from the HT.

When Q3's G is driven HIGH (12 volts on the G) the D lead becomes grounded.  12 volts from the power source travels thru the LED, the 1000 ohm current limiting resistor, to the grounded D lead.  This causes the LED to light up when the 555's output is HIGH.  The LED simply tells the operator when the HT should be keyed up.  This part of the circuit can be left out if the builder desires.

The SAW toy is powered by two AA batteries which equals 3 volts.  The LM317 voltage regulator reduces the power source voltage of 12 volts down to 3 volts for the SAW.  In this design... I used the original microphone and RECORD push button  switch.  The microphone was relocated to the front panel of the project box and silicon bathtub sealer glued into place.   The SAW RECORD button was left in its original place and an access hole was drilled for access.  Note that the REC button is recessed so it will not get bumped.  Bumping the REC button for the smallest amount of time will erase the memory. 

In the Fig 3 foto... I removed the SAW circuit boards PLAY push button switch and simply wired to the solder pad a lead from the 2N7000 Q2 signal path.  When removing the PLAY PB... be careful to remove the correct switch.  I caused myself some grief by mixing up PLAY and REC and spent hours figuring out why the SAW didn't work right.

S1 shown in FIG 4 is the REC/PLAY switch.  This switch simply interrupts the Q2 transistor from going into the PLAY mode while making a recording.  The FIG 3 foto shows two sets of switch contacts being used.  The second set interrupts the operation of PTT to the Handy Talky.  This part was left out of the FIG 4 schematic. 

One of the big factors in making the SAW work as part of the transmitter controller is the timer's time ON must match the length of the SAW's recorded message.  The values shown in FIG 5 will cause the handy talky to be ON for 17 or 35 seconds.  When I record the SAW's message... I usually make two 15 second messages in a row.  Each 15 second message contains the transmitter's ham radio call sign.  So, If I want to make the transmitter more challenging to find... I set the timer to 17 seconds ON/OFF and only the first 15 second message goes out over the air.  When set to 35 seconds... then the SAW plays both messages in a row.  Simple math... right?

FIG 5
 
R1, R2, C  calculator website:
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/LM555.html#3
FIG 5 is the schematic for the LM555 astable oscillator.  Note SW adds an extra 47 mfd to double the on/off time.
Pin 3 is the OUTPUT lead which alternates between GND and +12 volts. 
Here's my favorite website for 555 info:    http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/555timer.htm
 
HANDY TALKIES...   I use various handy talkies in my rabbit transmitters.  They have two things in common:  They are 2 meters and they are old and donated to my ARDF cause.  The ICOM 2AT is my favorite due to its simplicity- nothing digital, no LCD display, no internal battery to remember memories (that I know of).

The ICOM and Radio Shacks (and maybe others) are put in the XMIT mode by placing a 2.2K ohm resistor across the 3/32" microphone jack.  The SLeeve of the jack is grounded.  Once current flows thru the 2.2K ohm key up resistor... then audio from your SAW or other controller audio source can be applied across the resistor, but thru a DC blocking capacitor.  My experiments show that a very small amount of audio is needed to properly drive the HTs mic jack.  5 to 7 mV AC RMS is what's needed for about 2 KHz of FM deviation (according to my old Heathkit FM Dev meter).  If the HT is over driven with the audio signal... it will limit the audio... but it will sound distorted and possibly over deviate the HTs XMTR.  I used my Fluke VOM to measure the audio level across the mic jack.  Any AC volt meter that will measure millivolts should work.

My various HTs use different battery voltages to power them.  The ICOM 2AT uses 7.2 volts. But I have powered them on 12 volts and they work... but for how long?  I dont wanna take a chance of destroying it.

UPDATE:  The ICOM 2AT service manual says to NOT operate the radio higher than 8.0 volts... or damage to the transmitter will result.  Also, the 2AT battery has a 12 volt input jack.  This voltage goes thru a regulator to charge the battery to 8 volts or lower depending on the type of battery.

 I have a Radio Shack HT that was made to operate on 4 AA batts... so this one needs 5 to 6 volts.  I have a Radio Shack HT that has a 12 volt jack on it... so this one for sure will run on 12 volts... and so on.  If you inherit a used HT... it is best to power it with whatever voltage the battery that came with it was.  Most are 7.2 volts.

I use LM317 voltage regulators to reduce the Fox's XMTRs 12 volt SLA battery down to the needed voltage of 8.0 volts

Beware that it is important to operate the old HT on LOW POWER... the high duty cycle of the controller, say 35 seconds, it a long time for a HT's XMTR to be on.  I've overheated mine on HIGH POWER... and they get very hot and sound distorted.  This cant be good for them or the airwaves.


 

LM317 Info:

The 317 images were plagiarized from websites below.. which contains a calculator to figure out the R1 / R2 resistor values for your desired output voltage.  Don't leave out the C2 capacitor cuz it cleans up the DC voltage.  Leaving it out could cause your rabbit to sound poorly.  See:

http://www.whatcircuits.com/lm317-calculator-v2/    OR

http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/LM555.html#3


 
I remove the old cells and charging circuit (the guts) from the HT's battery.  This leaves lots of room for the LM317 voltage regulator circuit.  I drop a red and black wire out of the battery housing at a convenient length and attach Anderson Power Pole connectors for the convenience of swapping this XMTR into / out of  this enclosure.  You can use clip leads or wire nuts if you like... but I like the No Muss / No Fuss of the Anderson Power Poles.
 

Dah dit dit dit dah

     Introducing...     New Generation Fox XMTR... from  A R L

This is the third generation (3G) FOX / Bunny / Wabbit transmitter from A R L.  No more Ammo Cans for me. [note 1 below].

The Icom 2AT, SLA Battery, and controller are housed inside this 11"x8"x3" Snap Wear Storage container.  It is NOT 100 percent water proof nor theft proof like Ammo Cans... however it is way lighter in weight and more convenient to deal with.

The 3G shown has all connections on the outside:  BNC to antenna, Power Switch for RUN or CHARGE, and Power Poles for connection to 12 V SLA Battery charger.  This enables me to not open up the unit unless I need to reprogram the XMTR controller, which is hardly ever.

This 3G (like my other transmitters) is painted CAMMO to hide it... so the hunters will look for / find the ICON (or CONTROL in regulation ARDF and Orienteering) connected to the signal source.

======================================

Below shows the inside of the new improved 3G Wabbit XMTR...



The interior framework is made from 3/16" plywood, glued and pin nailed.  Once the glue dries... the framework becomes quite sturdy.  Each XMTR I build improves in some evolutionary way.

================================

Below shows a close up shot of the ID-O-Matic repeater controller by Dale Botkin, N0XAS of www.hamgadgets.com

This edition of the ID-O-Matic has built in Audio OUTPUT pots.  One of the POTS controls the audio level to the 3G's Handy Talky.  This version ID-O-Matic also runs on 12 volts (with built in regulator)... and it has the 2.2K Ohm resistor to key the Handy Talky.  I mention this cuz earlier ID-O-Matics did not have these features.  Some of my Fox XMTRs use old version ID-O-Matics with external keying resistors and audio control circuits. [See Fig 4 schematic above, upper R corner, 2.2K resistor... or schematic below].  The ID-O-Matic has a two color LED that tells when the Push To Talk to the Handy Talky is operated.  On this board, the LED leads are bent downward to protrude thru a hole in the plywood framework.  The LED can be seen thru the transparent plastic of the Snap Wear Box... to let the hider know when it is OTA. [look for three wires, just left of the label PWR LED in the foto above].

The 8 volt Regulator Daughter Board was an 'add on'... after I found out that the Icom 2AT handy talkie needs to run on no higher than 8 volts.  The next 3G I build will have the regulator in a better place... So I dont have to use Silicon Caulk as an insulator/spacer.

=======================================

Below foto shows connection to older version of ID-O-Matics... This foto is to give the builder / experimenter an idea of how the 2.2K ohm resistor keys the Handy Talky... and applies the audio into the mic jack.

 

 

Notes:
1.
My First Generation Fox XMTRS were built in tupperware containers... this was OK, but with a large battery they were kind of wobbly to handle.  Then came 2G AMMO cans... as I could screw a hasp into them and chain the XMTR to a tree or fence.  This worked well, except for 4 or 5 years I haven't had any vandalism issues... and the desire to lock them up made my hiding place choices more limited.  Also, in order to activate the XMTR... I had to open up the lid to close the switch.  Another big issue is that AMMO Cans are heavy.  Carrying two of them 1/4 mile is a work out.  The final straw that broke my AMMO Can spirit was when the lid came out of its hinge and dropped on my bare foot.  OUCH!.  Now I've evolved back to Tupperware like containers,,, more high tech durable and more sturdy Snap Ware, with handles.

 

   
More ARDF Fox XMTR stuff will go here...   Stay tuned... updated:  6/12/2011....dah dit dit dit dah...
 

But wait!!   There's more:   KR7W's favorite Fox controller is NOT the SAW project above...
But it is:

The envelope please: 

  



 

Updated last: June 12, 2011... KR7W

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